Food
Arely Sanchez fashions a corn tortilla into a smooth round shape, her hands slapping in a steady, practiced rhythm. She daubs a spinach-onion-cheese mixture on the finished circle of dough, folds the tortilla over and slides it onto the hot grill at Manna Soup Kitchen in Durango. The pupusa immediately starts to sizzle alongside a dozen others.
Sanchez makes various pupusas, including bean and cheese, squash, and pork—all served with a relish of pickled carrots, cabbage, red onion and jalapeno peppers. The recipe for her Durango pupusas is the same one she used when she made the popular dish in her native country of El Salvador. There, pupusas could be sold from her house.
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